Content of Bukhara History

From the history of the city
Fortifications
The Ark citadel and Registan
Western Section of the modern city
The city and the epoch
Trade cross-roads
Kosh-Medresseh. A Dialogue of the epoch
Subterranean and other mosques
In the eastern part of the city
Suburban Ensembles
In the Bukhara Oasis

The Ark citadel and Registan

As already mentioned, the oldest monument in Bukhara - the Ark citadel and residence of the local rulers, dates back to the third century B.C. Legend , however, rrefers us to even greater depths in history and associates the ancient fortress with the names of mythical characters from the ancient Eastern epic poem "Shahname " which was handed down from generation to generation. Here is what a sixteenth-century chronicle says: "The citadel in Bukhara was built for the following reason. Siyavush ibn-Keikavus fled his father. He crossed the Djeihun and went to Afrasiab who received him kindly and gave (him) his daughter in marriage. It is said that (Afrasiab) gave all his property to him. Siyavush wished to leave memory of himself in these lands because hi knew that life was short and would not favour him. Thus he ordered the construction of the Bukhara citadel and lived in it most of the time. When slender (gave rise to enmity) Afrasiab killed him. Siyavush was buried in the same citadel at the entrance to the Eastern gates which are called "Kakhfurushan" (vendors of hay) and also known as "Gates of Gurian ". The fire-worshippers of Bukhara, for this very reason, rever the given land. Every year, on the day of Navruz (before dawn ) people bring a rooster to the place. The people of Bukhara have special laments to commemorate the killing (of Siyavush). These words are (pronounced) over three thousand years. Some say that Afrasiab built (the Bukhara citadel). The citadel has been destroyed and (for many) years has remained (this way). "

The chronicle also describes numerous cycles of revival and destruction of the fortress, sieges and attacks just like in the following lines :

Do not think this is a fortress, it is a lofty mountain
Well beyond the reach of man´s imagination.
Its height (reaches) so far out to such extremes
That the hands of imagination are too short for it.
It stands out to the very sky
And the merlons are (like) a saw on top of the sun.

...The troops begin the battle.
To the sound of drums they advance to the attack.
During the battle rocks and arrows shower from the fortress
Like rain in spring from the clouds To discharge boulders instead of hail and arrows instead of rain.

Over the centuries, construction and destruction at the site of the Ark have an artificial hill 18 metres high. The top layer was built up by the last emirs of Bukhara. The fortifications were built up layer after layer one on top of the other till they developed into a motley facing of the hill. There are few surviving in the Ark since most of te wooden framework structures burnt out in a fire in 1920. The overall layout has been restored on the basis of historical documents.

The Ark was a city in itself and comprised closely spaced courtyards, offices , the residence of the emir, his wives, relatives and courtiers. Within the trapezoidal fortifications the construction layout was rectangular with the traditional crossing of the main streets facing the four sides of the world. The Ark housed the residence of the emir, including the salomkhana (greeting hall), the korunishkhana (audience chamber), the police department, the stables, various store houses, the treasury, the armoury, the prison, the mint, mosques, mausoleums, jewellers´ workshops.

The first of the structures that has survived to this day are the gates of the Ark which face west and open out on Registan square. The gates were built in the eighteenth century in the form of a massive portal fringed by double towers. The arched passage leads to a slopung planked bridge which spans an ancient moat. An arched dark ramp leads into the Ark and rises steeply to the level of the 20th century. On both sides of this corridor are twelve niches which lead down to wet dungeons. There were also horrible orison cells under the gate towes of the Ark. In one of the middle niches of the corridor a lamp used to be lit at a certain day of the year to commemorate the death of the legendary Siyavush who is believed to be buried at the site.

The gate portal is crowned with a latticed and arched gallery beyond which there is the nagorakhana - a musical pavilion which is a hall with two tiers of windows. In the past, an orchestra would play in nagorakhana traditionl makoms, whose melodies indicated the time of the day. From the roofed gallery of the nagorakhana the royal family used to watch festivities and executions in the square outside the Ark.

The korunishkhana is a cobbled courtyard fringed on three sides by roofed galleries with elegant wooden columns. In a deep niche on the long axis of the courtyard - the shahnishin, stands the marble throne of the emir which was carved by Nurata craftsmen in 1669. The emir used to be seated there under a canopy resting on carved marble columns.

Just opposite the corridor outlet into the Ark rises the roofed gallery of a grand mosque. It has the layout of a big block mosque in which the main prayer hall with four columns supporting the roof is surrounded on three sides by a roofed gallery. The decor displays typical features of the turn of the century. The latest repairs were conducted there during the rule oa Amir Alim-khan (1910-1920). The famous Uzbek craftsman Usto Shirin Muradov was then invited to perform plaster carving ornaments.

The Registan square to the west of the Ark developed into the city´s social centre during the pre-Arab period. Up to the thirteenth century , the square was built up with administrative buildings and palaces of the nobility. Later, the square was turned into a bazaar: at the entrance to the square sprawled Rasta-iy-tirgaron - a rows of stand where gunsmiths sold their ware ; in the centre of the square rose Toki Ord Furushon arcade and a domed structure where head-dresses were sold. And all around was the noisy and colorful eastern market. Close to the entrance of the Ark were the arsenal, the office of the kushbegi (military chief), the Poyanda grand mosque, the block mosques of various guilds and also the medresseh Bozori Gusfand belonging to the bitchers´ guild. Also there was the dar ash-shifa (hospital), where. According to ancient sources, patients were given potions and special food for treatment. The hospital was built with a layout similar to that of a medresseh. It also had wards, a dispensary and a pharmacy and was used for training physicians.

Opposite the Ark stands the Bolo-khauz complex of the eighteenth century which is the only monument of the Registan that has survived to this day. The magnificent roofed gallery, colorfully painted and displaying a multitude of columns, and the minaret of the complex are reflected in the water of the pond which is mentioned in the memoirs of the Russian envoy E.K.Meiendorf: "Some of the stores are housed in tents of a great variety of colors. Many of them are located around a big pond on the territory of the Registan. In the other parts of the square the market offers for sale firewood, vegetables, rise, barley, sorghum, cotton seed, sesame oil, as well as fruit, bread, candles, i.e. everything that is essential for the numerous population. The Registan is a frequented place and for this reason it is used for executions : criminals are hanged there and the heads of enemies killed in battle are put up for everyone to see."

Another, and even more colorful report, was made by P. Demeson after his expedition of 1830s : "The main square of Bukhara - the Registan is located just opposite the palace gates. Although it is a specious square it is so packed with people, camels, horses, donkeys, tents, all sorts of merchandise and foodstuffs that there are only two narrow passages left - one leads from the palace gates to the pond, while the other leads from the Darash-shifa medresseh to the Tukumduzi bazzar.
Beyond the Registan is a filthy courtyard used as a slave market. It is open for not more than three hours at dawn on Mondays and Thursdays. The slaves are only demonstrated there while the deal is made in the caravan-serais where the slave merchants stay when they come to Bukhara."